If you’re standing on the corner of 32nd Street and Broadway, there are several directions you can go to quickly find something good to eat. Walk East, and take your pick of innumerable Korean dining options, from dumplings to barbecue to bubble tea. Go a few streets downtown and you’ll have Mediterranean mezze at chef Jose Andrés’s newest NY restaurant, Zaytinya. A few blocks uptown is one of the city’s seminal dining rooms for meat eaters, Keens Steakhouse.

Soon, diners will be able to follow an unexpected path to one of the city’s best new big-deal meals: They can walk down the subway stairs and into N?ksu, the new fine dining Korean-influenced spot.